Well, this was
certainly the worst day of the trip so far, mainly because
of lack of sleep.
It all started when I boarded the plane in Lima this
morning, hoping to get some sleep on the way to Santiago.
First, it turned out I was only two rows ahead of the
smoking section, and the passengers behind me wasted not a
second after the no smoking sign went off, to light up.
Then, I’m beginning to think God has put a singing curse on
me. Seated directly across the aisle from me were a group
of musicians, who felt so good about going to Santiago last
night, that they spent the entire flight singing and
laughing and clapping their hands, pausing only when they
were served breakfast. Blissfully unconcerned about all the
passengers around them who were trying to catch a few winks
on the way, they kept us all up.
Upon
arrival in Santiago, I discovered that the city is two
hours ahead of Lima, so instead of a seven-hour layover, it
became a nine-hour layover. I wandered around the airport
for a while, trying to find a quiet place to lie down, but
the best I could find was a metal bench on the second level
of the airport, which turned out to be near a large metal
door which slammed very loudly every time someone went
through it.
I
spent nine hours in that purgatory, but finally the flight
to Mendoza was called, and I boarded it with bleary eyes.
The flight itself is just a hop over the Andes, and in a
half an hour I landed in Mendoza, caught a taxi to the
hotel, and was ushered into my room. But as soon as I had
taken my first shower in two days, I heard a knock on the
door. It was one of the guides from Summits, Chris Keen,
telling me to hurry downstairs to meet the others in the
group, and take care of the climbing permits. I dressed and
hustled down to the lobby, where the others were waiting.
My
first impression of them is that they are all older than I
am, and that they all seem to be pretty regular people. I
guess time will tell.
After the permit process was finished, Robert Link, our
main guide, gave us a brief speech, and we were released. I
took advantage of the opportunity to find a long distance
place to call Vilma, but had to make two tries because of a
busy line at home. After the third try, I asked the
operator to break in, only to be told that there was a data
transmission on the line. Vilma was using her modem! I
called again on my office line, and she picked it up, and
we talked for about fifteen minutes. It was so good to hear
her voice, especially because we won’t get another chance
to speak until I get back down off the mountain. It’s going
to be a long time, and I hate it. But I only can blame
myself for that.
I went back to the hotel for a two-hour nap, and fell
asleep right away. No need for a sleeping pill.
The group went out for dinner tonight, and upon getting
back to the hotel, I discovered I had a mild case of
diarrhea. I’m going to pop some Lomotil in hopes of nipping
this thing in the bud. What fun.
That’s about all I have to say for now. I’m bushed and I’m
going to crash.
Mendoza
to Puente del Inca
I
slept pretty well last night, and woke up about 15 minutes
before my alarm went off at eight. We met down at the lobby
at nine, and wandered over to this swank hotel called The
Plaza for breakfast. We all sat around a large round table
and got to know each other a little better. I sat between
Robert, a British physicist who lives in Santa Fe and works
on magnetics, and Steve, who owns a scene shop in Pasadena.
I talked mostly with Steve, who seems a bit taciturn, but
not unfriendly. The day before, as we were sitting in the
lobby, he made a point to disagree with something I had
said to one of the other climbers, so I wasn’t sure about
him. But he seems OK. We talked a bit about business, but
didn’t really get to know each other well enough to let our
hair down yet.
After breakfast I wandered over to the money changing
office to change a hundred dollars into pesos, and then
made my way back to the hotel to pack up my stuff for the
bus ride to Puente del Inca, where the climb really begins.
It didn’t take very long to get repacked, but I think the
real test will be when we divide the gear up for the mules
the day we actually start the trek in.
The
bus showed up at noon, and we loaded up to go. Soon
thereafter we wound our way out of Mendoza, and out onto
the high desert surrounding the town. Within a half hour,
the highway began to rise into the foothills of the Andes.
What little vegetation there had been disappeared, and the
reddish-gray dirt became the most noticeable feature of the
terrain. The highway skirted the Mendoza river, which ran
fast and silty. Robert told us that last year, after the
climb, the group did some white-water rafting in the river.
It seemed to me, brown-water rafting would be more
accurate.
After
a while we noticed snow on the peaks in the distance, and
entered sort of a broad spot in the valley where the town
of Uspallata nestled. We stopped there for lunch in a small
cafe, and by this time the conversation was getting a
little livelier. I sat near Robert and Loren and Mike.
Loren is a medical equipment salesman from Minneapolis,
real friendly and talkative, and Mike is a lawyer who works
on the 11th circuit court of appeals in Atlanta. He is a
very gregarious and talkative guy, with a sharp wit and a
real wicked sense of humor. I think I’m going to have a lot
of fun exchanging barbs with him.
After lunch we stopped at a shoe store so that some of our
group could buy some cheap shoes to use when crossing the
rivers. I already have some Tevas with me so I stayed on
the bus, but the ones who went came back with these goofy
Chinese slipper things, which immediately became the butt
of jokes.
Finally the bus pulled out of
Uspallata, and we began the last leg of the journey to
Puente del Inca. But after we had traveled only about five
miles, the driver pulled over to the side of the road, and
we all looked up to see what was wrong. The driver and
Carlos, our Argentine coordinator, came back from examining
the engine and announced that the fan had broken, and that
we had to turn back to try to get it fixed.
We
staggered back slowly into Uspallata, where we were dropped
off at a roadside inn, while Carlos, who assured us that
the problem would be fixed in a half an hour, and the
driver went off in search of a mechanic.
So we sat down again and ordered some Fantas, and continued
the conversations from lunch. A half an hour came and went,
and there was no sign of Carlos and the bus, so we ordered
a beer. And then another, and another. The conversations
started getting more animated, and despite the setback in
our progress toward the mountain, it was an opportunity for
us all to get to know each other in a very relaxed setting.
My impression of everyone so far is quite positive, no head
cases or assholes. The only one who worries me a bit is
Connie. She seems like she might turn out to be a bit
prickly, but that might be only because she’s the only
woman in our group, and could be feeling a little
uncomfortable. Or it also could be that she is still
suffering from the cancer that caused her to miss going to
Aconcagua last year. She has obviously undergone
chemotherapy recently, if the thinness of her hair is any
indication. I’ll just have to wait and see how we all get
along.
The afternoon wore on, conversations waxed and waned, the
sun began to set, and still no sign of the bus. The jokes
about the bus began to get a little more pointed, and I
could tell that even though Robert was laughing too, he was
not happy about the situation.
Just about dusk a minibus from the same company as our bus
pulled up, and for a minute it seemed our delivery was
near, but when Robert talked to the driver, it became
apparent that the appearance of the minibus was only
coincidence, and he was not going to be our salvation.
Robert and the driver continued their negotiations, and as
it began to turn dark, the upshot was that this driver
would take us up to Puente del Inca, and the bus and our
gear would follow whenever they could.
Just
as we were all loaded aboard, and started to drive off, our
original bus finally drove up behind us. So we all bailed
out again and got back on board the old bus. By this time
it was dark, and whatever scenery we might have seen was
hidden behind a curtain of black.
The
final leg up to Puente del Inca was touch and go. It turns
out that, in order to repair the bus, the mechanic had
removed the smaller fan from the air-conditioning system
and installed it in place of the larger, main fan. It
worked, but the engine temperature hovered at the red line
the entire trip.
Finally, at eleven o’clock, we
reached our destination, the hosteria at Puente del Inca.
It’s a fairly modern lodge, with rooms that hold six beds
each. We dropped off our bags and headed to the main dining
hall for a late supper. We were all pretty wasted by now,
what with the late hour and the massive quantities of beer
some of us had consumed, so there wasn’t a lot of
conversation. All of us sort of slept through the course of
melon and ham, then soup, but when they served steak and
french fries, I excused myself from the table and went to
the room to get a head start on a good night’s sleep. I
knew that a steak would sit in my stomach all night long
like a piece of pig iron, so there seemed to be no reason
to delay.
The others turned up maybe twenty minutes later, and in no
time we were asleep in our bunks. We were nine hours late,
but we had made our first destination. I hope this isn’t a
sign of things to come. However, I must say that we all
handled it with good humor. Of course, this really wasn’t
much of a test, but I believe this bodes well for the
cohesiveness of the group.
Puente
del Inca
I’m
sharing a room with Robert, Mike, Loren, Connie, and Steve.
The first night was spent without incident, and the sharing
of the bathroom went smoothly as well, with all of us
getting up in order of urgency, and no one seemed to be put
out by anyone else’s bathroom habits. I was the fourth one
to rise, and tried to get through the opening festivities
of the day as quickly as I could, even though the shower
head came off in my hand when I tried to adjust the
direction of the water stream.
We met in the dining hall at nine and I wolfed down the
usual tea and toast for breakfast. I must say that even
though I haven’t totally gotten used to the Argentine
eating schedule, I seem to be doing OK with it. This
morning I still found myself with a bit of the runs, so I
popped another Lomotil, and I hope to have this thing
cleared up soon. Knock on wood. I have climbed in that
condition before, and it’s an experience I don’t want to
relive.
After
breakfast we all met out behind the hosteria, and began the
task I had been dreading since I first started making up
gear lists back home: dividing up my gear for the climb. I
had hoped to hike up to base camp with just my day pack on
my back, but when Robert announced that we would be
carrying our sleeping bags and pads with us, I knew that my
plan was done for. There would be no way that I could put
anything else into the day pack if my massive sleeping bag
had to go in there too. It barely fit into the sleeping bag
compartment of my big pack. So I had to come up with
another plan, and was in the middle of tossing things from
bag to bag when Robert strolled up for the gear check.
He
went through all my gear, piece by piece, making sure I had
everything that had been listed by Summits as essential
equipment. He asked whether I had actually used my shoes
and pack before, just to make sure I would be used to them
and not dissolve immediately into a mass of blisters. He
checked my down parka, and head lamp, and made sure I had
enough sunscreen. I wasn’t happy about being the first to
be checked; I knew the others were watching to see how I
measured up, and to see whether their gear would pass
Robert’s test. But I made it through just fine, and went
back to piling my gear around, trying to get everything I
needed in the right bags.
It took about an hour and a half before I had things shoved
into the proper compartments, and I lifted my pack to check
its weight. I guessed it weighed about thirty pounds or so
without water, but that included my video camera and some
batteries, so I wasn’t displeased. It was more weight than
I wanted to carry to base camp, but I wasn’t carrying
anything that I considered extraneous, so I left it at
that.
The sun here is intense, so rather than risk another
sunburn, and wanting to conserve my sunscreen as much as
possible, I went back to the room for a little nap before
lunch. Though I didn’t actually fall asleep, it did me some
good. I figure I need all the rest I can get.
We had a great three course lunch, including dessert, and
afterwards gathered at the base of the valley opposite the
mountain to do a short conditioning climb. We crossed the
actual rock formation, shaped like a bridge, for which
Puente del Inca is named. It sits a little below a small
thermal spring, from which a sulfurous stream of hot water
spills out over the ground. The resulting accumulation of
minerals has formed a smooth, mineral-coated structure
which spans the Mendoza river. It looks a lot like a cave
formation with stalactites hanging down over the rushing
water. Just above the bridge are a couple of small pools
filled with warm water. Robert said that after we get back,
they are a great place to go to wash away the aches and
pains.
The walls of the valley rise steeply behind the thermal
springs, and a narrow zig-zag trail heads up the side of
the scree-covered slope. We followed this trail for about
an hour, with Robert checking our rest-stepping, and
pressure-breathing techniques. It will be very important
for us to do both techniques well, as they will help us
conserve energy, and avoid altitude sickness. The trail was
very dusty, and the air was hot despite the 9,000 ft.
altitude. Several times we crossed small gullies, and the
loose dirt under our feet threatened to crumble and send us
tumbling down into the valley below.
When we reached the end of the trail, we stopped and turned
to see Aconcagua for the first time. We had a full view of
the south face, and it was an intimidating sight. A small
cloud crowned the south summit, and we could see that the
wind was blowing hard on top. The mountain looked massive,
and though we won’t see the side we will be climbing for
the next few days, I had a hard time visualizing myself
making it to the top of such a giant.
Tomorrow we begin the trek to base camp, and though I’m
excited and eager to begin, I have a lot of misgivings and
worries. It will take a lot for me to overcome them. I know
I am as prepared as I can be, but the task ahead is without
a doubt the hardest physical task I have ever attempted. I
am determined, not necessarily to reach the summit, but to
do as well as I can, and to come home safe to Vilma.